Nina Ricci S/S 2014 │ via Fashion Gone Rogue.
"Nina Ricci creative director Peter Copping feminized menswear staples like the suit jacket, waist coat and button-up shirt for the label’s spring 2014 collection. Opening with a color palette of pure white and cream shades, the new season took airy and crisp lightness into more saturated hues such as cerulean and Monet-like floral prints during the latter section. Despite the mens inspiration, the Nina Ricci woman is not short on pretty or romantic for the upcoming spring. Dreamy dresses of chiffon, silk adorned with pleat details brought a romantic air to the show despite the interruption of protestors mid-way through."
Balenciaga S/S 2014 │ via WWD.
"Wang’s first looks out — and for that matter, those that followed — gave no overt indication of the unraveling part of the equation, none of the obvious shredding, deconstruction or other wrecking one might expect. Rather, he showed two sculptural suits in woven leather twine, one blue, one pink, their circular constructions a nod to the house founder but their mood, fresh and sporty. Next out, more obvious athletica: running shorts in the same leather twine, worn matched to either a tank or cropped T-shirt. There were hints of Fifties pool party and Sixties Space Age in shorts sets and veiled minidresses, respectively, but Wang handled his retro with savvy subtlety. He softened the structure a bit in pants and skirts with attached wraparound peplums.
As for the “unraveling,” it proved a starting point for some of the intricately wrought fabrics: fishnet bonded onto leather; an abstract floral that was first printed and then painted in rubber; a reproduced archival ivy print that was crushed and cut out. These were up there with the best of the season’s highly developed fabrics and exhibited one of the fruits of fusion between an inventive designer and a house with major resources.
The concept of decay also led to pretty pastel party dresses, charming, structured frou intended to look as if it were peeling away from its corsetry when in fact, there wasn’t a trace of faux-dishabille in sight. Lovely as these were, something about their fussiness felt a little foreign to Wang’s natural, edgier proclivities — at least as he’s revealed them to date. Conversely, among his best looks: a pair of long leather dresses, their precision cutout detailing done by water-jet lasers. Here, Wang seemed to relax not only the collection’s dominant structure but also its archival homage, along the way striking a lovely balance between chic and ease.”